Withthesuddenarrivalofspring,adiversityofmens’shoesblossoms!

Theslushyshoesofwinterare?

over!

So,thisisaverycomplicatedtimetogetdressed。

TimesphotographerBillCunninghamdeclaredthedeathof“dressdownFriday,”ashewasseeingpeopledressingway,wayup。

Andwhilehe’salwaysright,thatdoesn’tnecessarilymeanthatit’strueinyouroffice。

Butwhatitdoesmeanisthatyoucanoftendressinthewayyouseefit。

Often,it’seasiesttostartdressingfromtheshoes?

up。

Anddoyouevenknowwhatkindofshoesyou’rewearingright?

now?

Getready。

Thisisgoingtobe?

intense。

KINDSOF?

SHOES

Oxfords,derbyshoes,gibsons,bluchersandbalmorals。

Yup,thisisallgoingtobeterriblyconfusing,becausedifferentcountriescallthesedifferentthings。

Youmaynotevenknowwhatisonyourfeet。

Lookdown!

Lookup!

Cry!

Okaydon’tpanic。

InAmerica,whatwecallan“oxford”isreallyaderby。

(Annnddd…that’swhenyouclicked“closetab。

”)Thedifferencebetweenthetwoisabitoftechnicality:basically,ifithasa“flap”atoptheshoethathasthelaceholesintoit,it’saderby?

shoe。

Thisisaderby?

shoe。

Seehowthattopleatherpart-thingieissewedatoptheshoe?

Thatmakesitaderby。

Thisisan?

oxford。

That’sall!

Onehasalittlethingsewedonforthelaces,theotherjusthaslace-holes。

Basicallyyoucandienow,right?

Wellbadnews,the“oxford”isalsocalleda“balmoral,”andyouknowwhat,don’tworryaboutthat。

(UnlessyougotoBarneys,wheretheofficialterminologyis“balmoral。

”)

Sothetrueoxfordshoemakesforaverysleekprofileandfrontview,asit’ssoclosetothefootandbecausethelacesdrawitcompletelytogether;thederbyshoe,withitslittlebulk-addingflap,oftenhasalittlemoremanlychunktoit。

Ioftenfeeltoomuchlikealadyinanoxfordshoe!

Butthat’stotallypersonal。

Dudeslikewhatdudes?

like。

Broguesandwingtips。

Awingtipcanbeanyofthose!

“Wingtip”justmeansthey’redecorativelypunctured。

(Youmightuseanawltodotheleatherworking!

)Theshortversionhereisthata“wingtip”shoeisa“fullbrogue”anditiseasytoidentify:ithasa?

“W。



Otherkindsofperforatedshoesarekindsofbrogues?

too。

Hereissomethingimportanttoknowaboutwingtips:peoplenowadaysseethemasveryformalandfussy“bankerandlawyer”shoes。

Thiswasnotuntilrecentlythe?

case!

Thesaddleshoeandthespectatorshoe。

Thisislikeatrickquestion,becausethesaddleshoe,nomatterwhatcolor,hasa?

saddle。

Andspectatorshoesdo?

not。

Soyouwouldbasicallyneverwearaspectatorshoeunlessyouweregoingtoa“Gatsby”-themedlawn?

party。

Butyoucanwearabeat-upsaddleshoeontheweekendsandlookniceandnottotallysilly!

Alsothesearebothbrogues。

DOYOUWANTTOPASSOUT?

YET?

Monkshoes。

It’sa“monkshoe”ifithasabuckle,basically。

IhavenevermetonethatIliked。

ThisisanextremelyexpensiveBerlutishoe。

Nothanks!

Notforme!

Ifyoutakefivepeopleshoe-shoppingwithyouandtheyallagreeyoulookamazinginabuckleshoe,thenknockyourself?

out。

Loafers(asin,“Venetian-style”shoes,or“slippers”)。

Oh,atrickyone。

YoucanactuallywearaniceversionofaVenetianloafertotheofficeofa?

Friday。

ThisisaBrooksBrothers“classic”Venetian?

loafer。

Thatisnotanoffice?

shoe。

Butthis,thiscouldbe(oranicerversionofit),ifyouwerewearingnicejeansorsomething。

Regularloafers,boatshoesandtopsiders。

Foryourboatoryour?

lawn。

TOESIamnotgoingtotortureyouabouttheshapeofyourshoes’toes。

Toecapsarelikeskirtstyles;theycomeinandoutofvogue。

Thereweretwohorribleyearswheneveryshoewaspointy;therewasarevolutionwheneverytoewassquaredoff。

Isaysplitthedifferenceforsafety?

—?

andifyouloveit,wearit!

Butyoushouldknowtheseareextremitiesofstyleandit’seasytomakeenemiesateitherendofthespectrum。

(IpersonallycannotwearpointyshoeswithoutfeelinglikeI’minawitchcostume。

)

COLORAccordingtoHowtobeaGentleman,abooktowhichIdonotsubscribeatall,brownshoesaresomescary,riskything。

Hogwash!

Brownbeltandanot-blacksuitandyou’regoldenforbrownshoes。

Bluesummercottonsuitsandbrownshoesaregreat。

They’renotfunereal?

—?

althoughthey’realsonot,obviously,super-formal。

Ifyouarewearingseparates,there’snoreasonnottowear?

brown。

THREEBRIEFTHOUGHTSONSHOES?

Ifyourworkshoesareuncomfortable,you’redoingitwrong。

Shoesdon’thurt。

(Withrareexceptions。

I’mlookingatyou,vintageDirkBikkembergs。

)



Ifyouhaveatonofcashtospendonshoes,goonuptoJohnLobb,evenifjusttolook。

They’reincrediblywellmade,ifoverlytraditionalforsomeofus。

Like,reallywellmade。

Andthey’llansweryourquestionsand?

stuff!



Ifyoufeelreallysupergoodandstruttyaboutyourshoes,itdoesn’tmatterwhatdirtylooksyou’regettingonthestreet。

You’retheonethat?

matters。

Sponsoredpostsarepurelyeditorialcontentthatwearepleasedtohavepresentedbyaparticipatingsponsor,advertisersdonotproducethecontent。

Thisseries/postisbroughttoyoubyGillette。

LearnmoreaboutGilletteanditsproductsatGillette。